Stay on top of garden maintenance tasks with this lightweight hedge trimmer. The 51cm cutting blade with 16mm tooth spacing makes quick work of shrubs and hedges and the ergonomic design means it is easy to hold and manoeuvre on tall or wide hedges.
This hedge cutter comes with an extra long 10 metre cable, so you don’t need to worry about extension leads in extension leads to reach your hedge. We’ve also included a cable clamp on the hand guard to help you keep the electric cable safely out of the way whilst you are cutting.
We’ve included a range of features on this hedge cutter to make sure it is safe, as well as easy to use.
As well as the above safety features we recommend that you use both eye and ear protection whilst using the lightweight hedge cutter, and install a residual current device (RCD) on the socket.
|Product Dimensions||90cm L x 10cm W x 18cm H|
|Package Dimensions||94cm x 18cm x 11cm|
|Boxed Product Weight||3.39kg|
|Box Contains||Corded Hedge Trimmer, Blade Guard|
Always cut your hedge in dry weather, not only does this help prevent the spread of pathogens, it is safer when you are using electrical equipment.
Formal hedges usually require cutting to maintain their shape twice a year.
Cutting a New Hedge: When you’ve planted a new hedge most of the pruning will be formative. Usually this means cutting side branches until your hedge has reached your desired height. Cut evergreen hedges in spring and prune deciduous hedges in winter.
On formal hedges it is best to cut your hedge so there is a slightly sloping shape on the top, whether that is to a taper or just a slope. This will help light to reach more of the hedge, keeping it healthy, and it helps prevent damage from lying snow in the winter. If you want to maintain a straight edge use a string tied between two canes to guide you, or even a cardboard template.
Informal hedges are usually deciduous so prune them as you wood normal shrubs, timed on the basis of their flowering, rather than formal cutting.
If you need to renovate a broadleaf hedge such as privit, hawthorn, beech, you’ll need to complete it in steps over 3 years. Decide on the final dimensions and cut an additional 6 inches off each time to allow room for growth. In year 1 cut your first side (or the top), the second side in year 2 and the third side in year 3.
Hard pruning of conifers takes more planning. Most won’t withstand cutting back into dead wood, you’ll just be left with bare brown patches. In general, only Yew or Japanese Red Cedar will be able to be cut back that far, if you have a different type of conifer hedge that is completely out of control it may be best to dig it up and start again.
Sometimes brown patches appear on conifer hedges for reasons other than the foliage being cut back too far. For small patches, cut out the dead foliage, remove any debris, and wait for side branches to grow over the gap. If you have a larger area to repair insert some canes into the hole and tie green side branches across to encourage growth in that direction.